Pumpkin Route

Officially known as Unnamed in the local guidebook, this great route on the west end of Yamnuska’s south face is better known by locals as the Pumpkin Route, for the very large pumpkin that is painted on the wall at the top of the last pitch.

Joy

Joy is a very fun and unique climb that follows an incredibly striking right facing dihedral up the Mt. Indefatigable slab for nearly 2000 feet or 606 metres of climbing! Don’t expect any bolts though, as Joy is a pure trad climb that is bolt-free, which is a very special thing around here. The climbing…

Mt. Lorette

The south ridge of Mt. Lorette is a highly recommended moderate alpine rock route that hikes, scrambles, and climbs through some very beautiful terrain with some extra airy (exposed) sections found on the peak’s narrow ridge. Using the Troll Falls approach the round trip stats are approx. 12.5km with 1150m of elevation gain/loss. A mountain…

Pony Express

This great 3-star climb up Yamnuska’s west end follows an excellent rib of grey rock for 6-pitches. The climbing is very fun and results in an excellent day out on Yamnuska’s large south face. The route does follow a bunch of bolts but also requires some traditional rock placements for protection. 

Grillmair Chimneys

This historical 9-pitch climb was the first technical line up the steep south face of Yamnuska and is still very popular today. The line follows a right leaning weakness that has an alpine rock feel and finishes with a fun, airy chimney and the memorable worm-hole.

Forbidden Corner

This is a classic, 10-pitch rock route up the south face of Yamnuska that is also one of our favourite climbs. Expect a solid day of limestone rock climbing with exposed sections and a bunch of traverse pitches as we navigate our way up. FC is a memorable old school route with lots of flavour. 

Easy Street

This 6-pitch climb is a great Yam intro route and gets 2-star climb. The climbing is consistent in the 5.4-5.6 range, takes traditional rock placements, and makes for a nice day out, especially if these grades are your jam. The climbing is quite fun with a good mix of slab and crack climbing, which results…

The Eagle

The hardest ice route in the Valley of the Birds (VOTB) and a very worthwhile climb when it’s in. VOTB is a great canyon to explore and tic off a bunch of fun climbs.