Mt. Aberdeen

  • Description

    This is a great local peak to climb and can usually be combined with Haddo Peak (3070m) for a double summit. The views throughout the day are absolutely stunning and the atmosphere while traveling through the terrain is fully exhilarating. These peaks are big and require full-day efforts but fortunately, the terrain technical requirements are never more than some low-angled slow and ice. This being said, every year the glacial tongue gets slightly steeper and steeper. Expect to start early in order to get down at a reasonable time or plan to bivy closer to the glacial toe and save a few hours of hiking on the summit day.

    Aberdeen- North Glacier Route (III 50°- 55° 200m). This is the most popular ascent route for climbers. Expect to start early and have a big day or take 1.5 days with a bivy. Like all big mountain peaks, summits are never a guarantee but there are some great consolation prizes if Aberdeen is too much or if conditions are not ideal.

  • Grade

    IV

  • Duration

    1.5 days

  • Aspect

    N

  • Length

    10'338 / 3151m

  • Max Guiding Ratio

    2:1

  • Directions

    Banff National Park. From Canmore drive approx. 85km west on Hwy. 1 and park at the upper Lake Louise parking lot. 

  • Approach

    Park at the Lake Louise upper parking lot and hike up to Saddleback Pass. Then leave the hiker's trail and navigate toward Aberdeen's North glacier. The trip is roughly 17km with 1500 metres of elevation gain/loss.

  • Descent

    Retrace your approach or head down into Paradise valley via the west ridge and the wide SE gully.

  • Routes Nearby

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