Mt. Alberta

  • Description

    To quote Bill Corbett’s 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies, “Mt. Alberta is the hardest, loosest, scariest and most exhausting of all the 11’000ers, even by the so-called standard route. Yet …. it’s the one peak, other than perhaps Mt. Robson, that serious Rockies mountaineers most want on their climbing resumes.” We would agree. Mt. Alberta is tough but this place just so powerful and magnificent that any journey back here is well worth the effort. Hiking over Woolley Shoulder while on approach to the Lloyd MacKay Hut is in itself a memorable experience as you reminisce about all the famous alpinist who walked this same path on approach to Mt. Alberta or the great Twins Tower. The ‘standard route’ up Mt. Alberta is also known as the Japanese Route, which ascends the East Face and was first climbed by a group of Japanese climbers on July 21st, 1925. The best season to climb Alberta is from late July to early September, and it should go without saying that guests need to be very fit and quite experienced in snow, ice, and rock terrain. Mt. Alberta is not for everyone but we can work with you to build a plan which will help prepare you for what lies ahead. Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions or would like to start planning a trip.

    Click here for the story of the Mt. Alberta’s Silver Ice Axe!

  • Grade

    5.7
  • Duration

    4 days
  • Aspect

    E
  • Length

    11'873 / 3619m

  • Max Guiding Ratio

    1:1
  • Directions

    Jasper National Park. Drive roughly 2.5hr (220km one-way) north from Canmore on the Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93N).
  • Approach

    From the parking area, cross the Sunwapta River and follow the climber's trail which parallels Woolley Creek. Then navigate your way up and over Woolley Shoulder and then back down to the Lloyd MacKay Hut (2720m). This approach is very strenuous and takes roughly 6-7hrs and covers roughly 11kms with 1320m of elevation gained and 255m lost. 

  • Descent

    Retrace your steps down the standard route on the East Face which requires about 10 double rope rappels. Guests must be comfortable with exposure, descending loose rock/snow/ice terrain, and lowering/rappelling over cliffs.

  • Routes Nearby

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