Mt. Andromeda

  • Description

    Next to Athabasca is Andromeda, and these two peaks make up probably make up the most popular mountain duo in the Canadian Rockies. They are the stars of the show for many climbers and skiers, and the hordes of tourist who visit the Columbia Icefields Discovery Centre and participate in the snowcoach tours that drive onto the Athabasca glacier. There are many great routes on Mt. Andromeda and we’ll detail the main guided objectives below:

    • East Ridge III- This is probably the easier ascent choice on the mountain from highway side, and is the main descent route for most of the other routes. Gaining the AA col and the subsequent East ridge are the main challenges. (May-July)
    • Skyladder III- At the north end of the NW shoulder is a large curving snowfield that leads up to the summit ridge. This a very serious route has been feeling the effects of global warming which is exposing more rocks and shortening the window to climb this route. (May-June)
    • Asteroid Alley IV 5.9- If challenging mixed alpine climbing through chimneys and around chockstones is your jam then this route might be for you. It’s not an easy climb but in the right conditions sure is a lot of fun. (May-June, Oct-Nov)
    • Shooting Gallery IV 5.9- Located adjacent to Asteroid Alley with a general consensus that it is slightly easier when caught in the right conditions. The trick is timing the route with firm snow & ice conditions, and not dry scratchy rock. (May-June, Oct-Nov)
  • Grade

    IV
  • Duration

    1-2 days
  • Aspect

    N-E
  • Length

    11'319 / 3450m

  • Max Guiding Ratio

    2:1
  • Directions

    Roughly 2.5-3hr drive north from Canmore on the Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93N).
  • Approach

    Via the snowcoach road and up onto the moraines before breaking off to your respective routes. 

  • Descent

    Down the East ridge or retrace your steps. Guests should be comfortable with exposure, descending loose rock/snow/ice terrain, and lowering/rappelling over cliffs.

  • Routes Nearby

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