Mt. Kitchener

  • Description

    Mt. Kitchener is a striking summit in the Columbia Icefields and is also a member of the prestigious 11’000ers of the Canadian Rockies club, which is a group of 56 peaks in the Canadian Rockies whose summits rise above eleven thousand feet above sea level. Kitchener is known for three main routes and they are:

    • Southwest Slopes (PD)- Best done as a ski mountaineering ascent via the Athabasca Glacier in April-May.
    • East Ridge (PD+ 5.2)- Expect snow slopes, scree, loose & exposed low-5th class climbing in the notch, and stunning views.
    • Grand Central Couloir (V AI4 M6)- A harder alpine route that requires tons of skills and experience.

  • Grade

    5.2

  • Duration

    1-2 days

  • Aspect

    N-E

  • Length

    11'450 / 3490m

  • Max Guiding Ratio

    2:1

  • Directions

    Jasper National Park. From Canmore, drive NW on Hwy. 1 to Lake Louise and then onto the famous Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93N). One-way drive time is roughly 2.5 hrs or 216 kms.

  • Approach

    The SW slopes are best approached via the Athabasca Glacier using skis in the spring time (April & May). The East Ridge is best approached via K2 near the Dome Glacier.

  • Descent

    Down the East ridge or the SW slopes/the Athabasca Glacier.

  • Routes Nearby

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