Mt. Victoria

  • Description

    Ahh, the beautiful Mt. Victoria that strikes its big mountain pose for on lookers at the far end of Lake Louise from the famous Chateau Lake Louise. Originally named Mt. Green, this beautiful peak was renamed Mt. Victoria after Queen Victoria. Mt. Vic, as it’s often called, has been providing climbers with fun and rewarding big mountain days since its first ascent in 1897 and continues to deliver to this day.  There are a number of routes to the summit but we’ll focus on the two main lines below.

    • South Summit (3467m) via the Southeast Ridge (IV low 5th 350m). This is a long and exposed ridge with stunning mountain views. Though it can be done in a long day from Lake Louise, it is usually accessed via Lake O’Hara (2020m) for a 2-3-day trip by way of the Huber Ledges. The 3rd day provides an extra weather day or the option to climb the other nearby 11’000er- Mt. Huber (3368m). How does the possibility of two 11,000’ers sound! For length, the round trip between Lake O’Hara and South Vic via the Huber Ledges is ≈10km and +/-1450m (add 2km & 350m elevation for Mt. Huber).
    • North Summit (3388m) via the Northeast Ridge (IV 5.3 40° 200m). This long and fun climb is a true classic 11’000er that is best done over 2 days with a bivy near the upper Victoria glacier, starting from the Chateau Lake Louise at 1750m. Expect a superb, big, and rewarding climb that travels through very mountainous terrain and involves: hiking, glacial travel, and climbing on snow, rock, and ice (depending on conditions). North Vic is a true alpine climber’s summit! For length, the round trip between North Vic and Chateau Lake Louise is 20km with 1670m of elevation gain/loss.
  • Grade

    IV
  • Duration

    2-3 days
  • Aspect

    NE, SE
  • Length

    11'375 / 3467m

  • Max Guiding Ratio

    2:1
  • Directions

    Banff National Park (N. Vic). From Canmore, drive 85km (1hr.) to the Lake Louise parking lots (near the Chateau Lake Louise). Yoho National Park (S. Vic). From Canmore drive 93km (1hr.) to the Lake O'Hara parking lots, which is just west of Lake Louise on Hwy. 1.
  • Approach

    For South Vic, the approach is best done from the Lake O'Hara side via the Huber Ledges, which gives you access to the SW ridge by way of a sneaky climber's path.

    For North Vic, the approach starts at the Chateau Lake Louise and hikes up to the Plain of Six Glacier tea house, before finding the climber's trail which sneaks up and through an overgrown trail to access the Upper Vic. Gl. 

  • Descent

    Typically you retrace your steps. Guests should be comfortable with exposure, descending loose rock/snow/ice terrain, and lowering/rappelling over cliffs.

  • Routes Nearby

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