Woolley & Diadem

  • Description

    Mt. Woolley (3420m/11,220ft) and Mt. Diadem (3371m/11,060ft) and two 11,000’ers of the Canadian Rockies that are so close to one another that they can be combined into the same trip and even the same summit day! A typically Woolley/Diadem trip requires 3 days with good weather and good conditions. Day 1 & 3 are the hike in, hike out days, and day 2 is the summit day. To keep this pace, guests need to be very fit and have previous mountaineering experience. This is a very adventurous trip with many hurdles and challenges that will need to be overcome. The main guided routes are up the North ridge of Mt. Woolley and the SW ridge of Mt. Diadem. Neither of those two routes are overly technical but they do come with some very real objective hazards, with the most prominent objective hazard being icefall from the glacial serac/icefall that is located between the two peaks, as well as crevasses, and lots of loose rock. Timing is everything with trips like this so plan to book your trip between mid-July to September and expect a very early alpine start on your summit day.

  • Grade

    V
  • Duration

    3 days
  • Aspect

    SE-N
  • Length

    11'220 / 3420m

  • Max Guiding Ratio

    2:1
  • Directions

    Drive roughly 2.5hr (220km one-way) north from Canmore on the Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93N).
  • Approach

    Cross the Sunwatpa River and catch the climber's trail that leads up Woolley Creek to the bivy site at roughly 2300m.

  • Descent

    Guests should be comfortable with exposure, descending loose rock/snow/ice terrain, and lowering/rappelling over cliffs.

  • Routes Nearby

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