This is a great front range 7-pitch sport route that climbs up the Nanny Goat North bluff on Loder Peak. What’s great about this route is that due to its high rock quality and climber popularity, the risk of loose rock is relatively less than many other routes in the area. Enjoy fairly consistent 5.9 face & slab climbing with a short crux part way up that is easy to pull through if needed. Plan to climb with your backpack as we do not return to the base. The downside is the landfill but the quality of climbing more than makes up for this small detail.
DirectionsKananaskis Country (Bow Valley Wildland Prov. Park). From Canmore, drive east on Hwy 1A for 20km and park opposite the Francis Cooke Landfill.
ApproachHike around the landfill on a climber’s trail that gradually gains elevation (25-35min)
DescentHike down the climber’s descent trail with a little bit of short roping and one lower.